Peace Corps Goal #3 and a trip to Matagalpa

 

Peace Corps has three goals. Officially stated they are:

• To help the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women
• To help promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served
• To help promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans

            (I wish they would go ahead and add a fourth goal, since, although unstated, it is clearly a primary reason for the existence of Peace Corps: Provide a group of adventuresome, wonderful, young US citizens with the financial and logistical support to live in a developing country for two years in order to mature, become bilingual, deepen their understanding of poverty in the world and the intricacies of international development, build a resume, and generally prepare themselves for leadership.

            I can even fantasize about a fifth goal that I’d like to see publicly stated: Provide older Americans, in retirement or other periods of transition, with the opportunity to apply their skills and life experiences to international development projects and enhance their understanding of the political, economic, and cultural impact of The United States in the rest of the world. Sometime soon I’ll write more about being an older volunteer.)

In terms of goal number one, I’m a productive volunteer. I know during my two years here I will be busy and I’ll develop some worthwhile projects. I don’t anticipate that big changes will occur because I lived and worked in Chinandega for two years, but I do think I’ll have a positive impact. However, that being said, I got to admit that the biggest part of my energy and excitement are for goals two and three. For me, goal two - to help promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served - involves being a member of the community and a good neighbor. I take very seriously, being a next-door ambassador and letting people see first hand what people from the US are like.

However, for what I’m writing here, I want to focus on goal number 3 - To help promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans - which was very much on my mind during a recent trip to the city of Matagalpa.

 I went to Matagalpa by myself and Deb stayed home in Chinandega. A group of volunteers had organized a girl’s soccer camp during which they were presenting information on sexual health including HIV/AIDS awarness. They organized their presentation around a narrative that ran through all five days of the camp. I had done a set of illustrations for the narrative and I got invited to come for a day and observe the Camp. It was wonderful!

Then I wandered around Matagalpa for a day and a half on my own. Whenever I am away from Deb and having a good time, I think, “Boy, I can’t wait to tell Deb about this” or “I got to come back here with Deb.” This time, in addition to planning how I’d share the experience with Deb, I found myself thinking, “I got to blog about this! I got to share this with people back in the States!” In general, my experience of being in Nicaragua is being so rich and thought provoking that I am very motivated to let you in on as much of it as I can. That’s goal number three!

Therefore, here are some impressions of and stories about Matagalpa.

I had been thinking about visiting Matagalpa for a long time. Back in the summer of 2014, not long after Deb and I learned we had been accepted to go to Nicaragua, we visited our friends Ted Bronsnick and Cathy Currier in Ithaca, New York. Cathy’s mother, Connie lives next door and we were telling her about our plans. She said, “Oh my second floor tenant, Bobby, was in the Peace Corps in Nicaragua.” So we banged on Bobby Frisch’s door and got him to sit on Cathy and Ted’s porch with us and tell stories about his experiences. He was a business volunteer in Matagalpa. I’m not sure of the dates, but I think about six years ago. One of his projects was to be the business manager for a local band in which he also played drums. He was so successful at promoting them that he landed a gig in Germany. In Germany everyone was impressed with what good English the drummer in the band from Nicaragua spoke. Bobby liked his time in Matagalpa well enough to stay on after he finished his Peace Corps service and open a backpackers hostel called La Buena Onda. (http://www.labuenaonda.com.ni/) Of course this is where I stayed. It is a favorite with Peace Corps volunteers, although there has been a recent falling out because drunken volunteers caused problems with the neighbors. Also, current volunteers don’t know the history. I told a few that La Buena Onda had been founded by a volunteer and they said, “No, some Dutch guy runs that place.” True enough, but there is more to the story.

Since Peace Corps Bobby has started a glamping company. Check out: http://www.firelightcamps.com/#an-elevated-camping-experience and schedule a trip to Ithaca!

After awhile Bobby’s wife Emma came and joined us on the porch. Connie said, “Emma, tell them about your television show!” Emma Frisch (http://www.emmafrisch.com/) is a food blogger who had just been a contestant on Food Network Stars. The season had been filmed, but Emma was sworn to secrecy about the out come. Deb and I went home and got totally hooked. Watched every episode!

By telling you about Bobby and Emma Frisch I don’t mean to suggest that being a Peace Corps volunteer assures you an interesting life, but if you draw that conclusion I won’t dissuade you. 

Bobby and Emma in Nicaragua.

Whereas Chinandega has a reputation for the harshest climate in Nicaragua, Matagalpa is said to have the best. It is in the mountains, with warm, spring-like days and some nights that even require a sweater. It was rainy while I was there, but the change in temperature was dramatic and a relief. Matagalpa also has a touristy feel. There are more foreigners around. You hear other languages being spoken; German, French, British-English, and Australian-English. There are businesses that cater to visitors; coffee shops, adventure tour companies, hostels, hotels, and schools teaching Spanish. Bulletin boards announce opportunities to volunteer and eco-tourism projects. Matagalpa is coffee growing country and there are high end and low cost ways to be guests on coffee plantations.

Like many Cities in Nicaragua, the center of Matagalpa is laid out on an axis between two churches. At one end are the Central Park and the Cathedral of San Pedro. Eight blocks west are Parque Dario and the Temple of San Jose. This square is smaller and quieter than the main park and cathedral and completely charming. 

I love the experience of unexpectedly coming upon a piece of artwork that grabs me. It can happen in a gallery or museum or by seeing an image sprayed on a wall. In Matagalpa it was the carved and painted doors of Temple San Jose. Mary is on the left hand door and Joseph and Jesus are on the right. These are wonderful images. They are such specific and real people. Despite their trappings of divinity, you feel like you know them. Joe is the guy who built your deck last year. Jesus is the kid who sometimes came to work with him and shot baskets in the driveway. Mary is his slightly loopy, born again wife who once came by in shorts and a halter-top to drop off some excellent zucchini bread. I don’t know if Saint Joseph is the patron saint of stepfathers or not, but he should be. One look at him and the kid he is helping to raise and you know the boy’s paternity means nothing to him. Jesus is just a kid who needs somebody bigger and stronger to take care of him, somebody to lay a comforting hand on his head, some encouragement, some teaching, and love. Joseph is on the job. Jesus may be headed for bigger things, but all that is twenty years in the future and right now he is just a kid. This is the story the carvings tell.

O.K. One more thing about Matagalpa, on the other side of the park from the church is, perhaps, the best ice cream shop in the world, at least it is in the running. Beseme, La Vida Mas Dulce (https://www.facebook.com/besameporfa). I had Tres Leches ice cream.