Peace Corps has three goals. Officially stated they are:
- To help the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women
- To help promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served
- To help promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans
(I
wish they would go ahead and add a fourth goal, since, although unstated, it is
clearly a primary reason for the existence of Peace Corps: Provide a group of
adventuresome, wonderful, young US citizens with the financial and logistical
support to live in a developing country for two years in order to mature,
become bilingual, deepen their understanding of poverty in the world and the
intricacies of international development, build a resume, and generally prepare
themselves for leadership.
I
can even fantasize about a fifth goal that I’d like to see publicly stated:
Provide older Americans, in retirement or other periods of transition, with the
opportunity to apply their skills and life experiences to international
development projects and enhance their understanding of the political,
economic, and cultural impact of The United States in the rest of the world.
Sometime soon I’ll write more about being an older volunteer.)
In terms of goal number one, I’m a productive volunteer. I
know during my two years here I will be busy and I’ll develop some worthwhile
projects. I don’t anticipate that big changes will occur because I lived and
worked in Chinandega for two years, but I do think I’ll have a positive impact.
However, that being said, I got to admit that the biggest part of my energy and
excitement are for goals two and three. For me, goal two - to help promote a better understanding of Americans
on the part of the peoples served - involves being a member of the
community and a good neighbor. I take very seriously, being a next-door
ambassador and letting people see first hand what people from the US are like.
However, for what I’m writing here, I want to focus on goal
number 3 - To help promote a better
understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans - which was very
much on my mind during a recent trip to the city of Matagalpa.
I went to
Matagalpa by myself and Deb stayed home in Chinandega. A group of volunteers
had organized a girl’s soccer camp during which they were presenting
information on sexual health including HIV/AIDS awarness. They organized their
presentation around a narrative that ran through all five days of the camp. I
had done a set of illustrations for the narrative and I got invited to come for
a day and observe the Camp. It was wonderful!
Then I wandered around Matagalpa for a day and a half on my
own. Whenever I am away from Deb and having a good time, I think, “Boy, I can’t
wait to tell Deb about this” or “I got to come back here with Deb.” This time,
in addition to planning how I’d share the experience with Deb, I found myself
thinking, “I got to blog about this! I got to share this with people back in
the States!” In general, my experience of being in Nicaragua is being so rich
and thought provoking that I am very motivated to let you in on as much of it
as I can. That’s goal number three!
Therefore, here are some impressions of and stories about
Matagalpa.
I had been thinking about visiting Matagalpa for a long time.
Back in the summer of 2014, not long after Deb and I learned we had been
accepted to go to Nicaragua, we visited our friends Ted Bronsnick and Cathy
Currier in Ithaca, New York. Cathy’s mother, Connie lives next door and we were
telling her about our plans. She said, “Oh my second floor tenant, Bobby, was
in the Peace Corps in Nicaragua.” So we banged on Bobby Frisch’s door and got
him to sit on Cathy and Ted’s porch with us and tell stories about his
experiences. He was a business volunteer in Matagalpa. I’m not sure of the
dates, but I think about six years ago. One of his projects was to be the
business manager for a local band in which he also played drums. He was so
successful at promoting them that he landed a gig in Germany. In Germany
everyone was impressed with what good English the drummer in the band from
Nicaragua spoke. Bobby liked his time in Matagalpa well enough to stay on after
he finished his Peace Corps service and open a backpackers hostel called La Buena Onda.
(http://www.labuenaonda.com.ni/)
Of course this is where I stayed. It is a favorite with Peace Corps volunteers,
although there has been a recent falling out because drunken volunteers caused
problems with the neighbors. Also, current volunteers don’t know the history. I
told a few that La Buena Onda had been founded by a volunteer and they said,
“No, some Dutch guy runs that place.” True enough, but there is more to the
story.
Since Peace Corps Bobby has started a glamping company. Check
out: http://www.firelightcamps.com/#an-elevated-camping-experience
and schedule a trip to Ithaca!
After awhile Bobby’s wife Emma came and joined us on the
porch. Connie said, “Emma, tell them about your television show!” Emma Frisch (http://www.emmafrisch.com/) is a food
blogger who had just been a contestant on Food Network Stars. The season had been
filmed, but Emma was sworn to secrecy about the out come. Deb and I went home
and got totally hooked. Watched every episode!
By telling you about Bobby and Emma Frisch I don’t mean to
suggest that being a Peace Corps volunteer assures you an interesting life, but
if you draw that conclusion I won’t dissuade you.
 | |
| Bobby and Emma in Nicaragua. |
Whereas Chinandega has a reputation for the harshest climate
in Nicaragua, Matagalpa is said to have the best. It is in the mountains, with
warm, spring-like days and some nights that even require a sweater. It was
rainy while I was there, but the change in temperature was dramatic and a
relief. Matagalpa also has a touristy feel. There are more foreigners around.
You hear other languages being spoken; German, French, British-English, and Australian-English.
There are businesses that cater to visitors; coffee shops, adventure tour
companies, hostels, hotels, and schools teaching Spanish. Bulletin boards
announce opportunities to volunteer and eco-tourism projects. Matagalpa is
coffee growing country and there are high end and low cost ways to be guests on
coffee plantations.
Like many Cities in Nicaragua, the center of Matagalpa is
laid out on an axis between two churches. At one end are the Central Park and
the Cathedral of San Pedro. Eight blocks west are Parque Dario and the Temple
of San Jose. This square is smaller and quieter than the main park and
cathedral and completely charming.
I love the experience of unexpectedly coming
upon a piece of artwork that grabs me. It can happen in a gallery or museum or
by seeing an image sprayed on a wall. In Matagalpa it was the carved and
painted doors of Temple San Jose. Mary is on the left hand door and Joseph and
Jesus are on the right. These are wonderful images. They are such specific and
real people. Despite their trappings of divinity, you feel like you know them.
Joe is the guy who built your deck last year. Jesus is the kid who sometimes
came to work with him and shot baskets in the driveway. Mary is his slightly
loopy, born again wife who once came by in shorts and a halter-top to drop off
some excellent zucchini bread. I don’t know if Saint Joseph is the patron saint
of stepfathers or not, but he should be. One look at him and the kid he is
helping to raise and you know the boy’s paternity means nothing to him. Jesus
is just a kid who needs somebody bigger and stronger to take care of him,
somebody to lay a comforting hand on his head, some encouragement, some
teaching, and love. Joseph is on the job. Jesus may be headed for bigger
things, but all that is twenty years in the future and right now he is just a
kid. This is the story the carvings tell.
O.K. One more thing about Matagalpa, on the other side of the
park from the church is, perhaps, the best ice cream shop in the world, at
least it is in the running. Beseme, La Vida Mas Dulce (https://www.facebook.com/besameporfa).
I had Tres Leches ice cream.
